⚡ Quick Answer (30 seconds)
- Ashley piercing = single vertical piercing through the center of the lower lip, exiting inside the mouth.
- Pain: 5/10. Healing: 2-4 months external, 6 months full.
- Rejection rate: ~30% — above average, due to constant lip movement.
→ Placement details, 10 jewelry picks and aftercare below.
Named after an early 2000s piercing enthusiast, the Ashley piercing has quietly grown from niche to mainstream. A single centered gem on the lower lip — visible, symmetric, and subtle enough to fit most workplaces. It’s less aggressive than snake bites (double lower-lip) and more symmetric than a Monroe. This guide explains placement, pain, healing, dental risks, and 10 specific jewelry picks that last.
What Is an Ashley Piercing?
An Ashley piercing is a vertical lip piercing through the center of the lower lip, entering on the front face of the lip and exiting inside the mouth below the teeth. Only the top bead/gem is visible — unlike most lip piercings, there’s no visible backing.
Sometimes confused with:
- Vertical labret: pierces from inside the lip up through the top of the lip (both ends visible). Different.
- Labret (standard): pierces through the skin below the lip, not the lip itself. Different.
- Medusa: vertical piercing through the upper lip philtrum. Mirror of Ashley.
The Procedure
Done with a 14G or 16G hollow piercing needle. The piercer marks the entry point on the center of your lower lip, checks symmetry with you, then clamps and pierces straight through. A labret stud with a flat back is immediately inserted. Total time: under 5 minutes.
Pain & Healing Timeline
| Metric | Ashley Piercing |
|---|---|
| Piercing pain | 5/10 (sharp but brief) |
| Swelling peak | Days 2-5 (bar will look partially buried) |
| Initial healing | 4-6 weeks |
| Full healing | 2-4 months |
| Internal oral healing | Up to 6 months |
| Rejection rate | ~30% within 2 years |
Dental Risks (Be Aware)
- Tooth enamel wear — the backing rubs against lower front incisors
- Gum recession — the backing can wear the gumline over months
- Chipped teeth — biting down on food with the disc in place
Mitigation: ask for the smallest flat-back disc possible (3mm). After full healing, consider swapping to a PTFE (polymer) back which is tooth-safer.
✨ Shop Ashley Piercing Jewelry
All TBR lip jewelry is ASTM F-136 titanium or medical-grade PTFE — the two tooth-safest materials for oral piercings.
10 Ashley Piercing Jewelry Picks
Fresh Piercing (0-8 weeks)
- 16G F-136 titanium labret, 10mm post, 3mm flat disc + 3mm top ball — standard starter
- 14G F-136 titanium labret, 10mm, 3mm flat disc + 3mm gem top — if pierced at 14G
Healed Daily Wear (2+ months)
- 16G titanium labret, 8mm (downsized) — shorter post after swelling subsides
- 16G titanium with 2.5mm cubic zirconia threadless top — minimal sparkle
- 16G titanium with 3mm opal top — popular for warm skin tones
Decorative (fully healed)
- 16G 14K solid gold labret, 8mm — luxury upgrade
- 16G rose gold titanium-anodized labret — warm-tone look without precious metal cost
- 16G niobium rainbow labret — colorful, fully nickel-free
Specialty
- 16G PTFE labret (clear) — retainer for work, swimming, dentist visits
- 16G titanium + PTFE back — best-of-both for long-term tooth safety
Aftercare That Works
- Sterile saline spray on the external piercing 3x daily
- Alcohol-free mouthwash (Biotene or similar) after meals for internal oral healing
- Rinse with water after every meal — food particles around the disc cause infection
- No spicy, acidic, or very hot food for 2 weeks
- No alcohol or smoking for 2-4 weeks — both dramatically slow healing
- No kissing / oral contact for 4 weeks
- Don’t play with the bar — the #1 cause of tooth damage is the habit of clicking it against teeth
- Downsize post length at 6-8 weeks once swelling is gone
Rejection Warning Signs
- Jewelry visibly moving toward the surface
- Thinning or translucent skin above the jewelry
- Persistent soreness past week 6
- Continuous discharge past week 8
Catch rejection early — a retired Ashley piercing leaves a tiny dot scar. Full rejection leaves a visible vertical line on the lip.
For APP-approved aftercare, refer to the Association of Professional Piercers.
Frequently Asked Questions
How painful is an Ashley piercing?
5/10 — sharp but brief. The lip has fewer nerves than the inside of the mouth, so the actual piercing is quicker and less intense than many expect.
How long does an Ashley piercing take to heal?
External healing 2-4 months, internal oral healing up to 6 months. Downsize the post at 6-8 weeks to reduce dental impact during final healing.
What’s the difference between Ashley and vertical labret?
Ashley enters the front of the lip and exits inside the mouth (one bead visible). Vertical labret pierces from inside up through the top of the lip (two beads visible). Different placements.
Can an Ashley piercing damage my teeth?
Yes, over time — the backing rubs against lower incisors. Minimize by using the smallest disc possible (3mm), avoiding the habit of clicking it against teeth, and considering a PTFE back post-healing.
Can I kiss with an Ashley piercing?
Not for the first 4 weeks. After that, gently — and be mindful of catching the bar on teeth. Full-healed (3+ months), kissing is low-risk.
What gauge is an Ashley piercing?
Usually 14G or 16G. 16G is more common and healing-friendly; 14G offers more jewelry options but has slightly higher damage risk.
How much does an Ashley piercing cost?
$50-90 including starter jewelry at reputable studios. Avoid shops charging under $40 — at this oral placement, sterilization and jewelry grade matter.
Can I change the jewelry myself?
Not before the 8-week downsize — your piercer should do that. After that, you can swap threadless tops yourself. Post changes should be done carefully over a clean surface, with fresh jewelry already at hand.
About the author
Mona Lin — Head of Piercing Education at The Body Rings. APP member, 10+ years professional body piercing experience.